What not to mix or use with retinol
The main things not to use with retinol are other retinoids, exfoliating acids such as AHAs and BHAs, benzoyl peroxide, and scrubs. The problem is usually stacked irritation rather than anything dangerous. Hydrating ingredients, plain moisturiser and sunscreen are normally fine. If your retinoid is prescribed, ask whoever prescribed it before adding anything.
The clearest official guidance in New Zealand comes from a medicine rather than a cosmetic. Medsafe's data sheet for tretinoin cream is about a prescribed retinoid, which is stronger than cosmetic retinol. Even so, it's a useful guide to what tends to clash. It says to use particular caution with keratolytic agents (ingredients that loosen skin cells) such as sulphur, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and resorcinol, and with chemical abrasives. It also warns that some medicated cleansers and scrubs have a strong drying effect.
Keep apart
| Product | Why |
|---|---|
| Other retinoids | More of the same, so more redness and peeling |
| Glycolic, lactic, mandelic acid (AHAs) | Exfoliating on top of retinol piles up irritation |
| Salicylic acid (BHA) | Named in Medsafe's caution for tretinoin |
| Benzoyl peroxide | Named in the same caution, and can be drying |
| Scrubs and strong cleansers | Physical irritation on already busy skin |
| Peels and salon treatments | Ask your therapist, and tell them what you use |
Usually fine
- Moisturiser and sunscreen. DermNet suggests a daily sunscreen with moisturiser to protect against the sun sensitivity and dryness that retinoids can cause.
- Hyaluronic acid. A hydrating ingredient that's easy to pair. See what hyaluronic acid does.
- Niacinamide. DermNet says it's well tolerated and can often be used by people who can't tolerate retinoids. See what niacinamide does.
- Vitamin C. Many people use it in the morning and retinol at night, which sidesteps any argument about mixing the two.
"Usually fine" isn't "always fine". The American Academy of Dermatology advises starting with one product at a time, and stopping one that stings, burns or tingles.
Signs you've overdone it
Redness, peeling, dryness and stinging are the usual signs, and DermNet lists them as the classic side effects of retinoids. If they show up, drop the extra products first, then use retinol less often, and keep up your moisturiser and sunscreen. If your skin is sore, swelling or not settling after a few days, stop and talk to a pharmacist or your GP.
Same day or same moment?
People often ask if they can simply use an acid in the morning and retinol at night. Some people can, once their skin has adjusted. If you're new to retinol, keep them on separate days. Your skin doesn't care which bottle caused the redness, only how much it's had.
A sample week
If you use a retinol serum and enjoy a jelly mask, here's one way to arrange it. Hyaluronic Acid contains retinol, kojic acid and arbutin, so it doesn't go on the same day as other retinoids or exfoliating acids. Whichever formula you use, a mask night is a good night to skip the serum.
| Day | Evening |
|---|---|
| Monday | Retinol serum, moisturiser |
| Tuesday | Moisturiser only |
| Wednesday | Moisturiser only |
| Thursday | Retinol serum, moisturiser |
| Friday | Moisturiser only |
| Saturday | Jelly mask, moisturiser |
| Sunday | Moisturiser only |
Sunscreen goes on every morning. Move things around as you like, but leave a clear gap. Our how often guide has more on mask rhythm, and if your skin starts complaining, drop back to fewer retinol nights first.
Other things to plan around retinol
- Sun. Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to light. Medsafe's sheet also says skin should have fully recovered from sunburn before use, and it notes strong wind or cold, dry air can irritate. That matters in a New Zealand winter.
- Waxing. Tell your therapist you use it.
- Pregnancy. See skincare in pregnancy.
Questions
Can you use vitamin C and retinol together?
Many people use vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night, which keeps them apart. If your skin handles both well, there's no need to be anxious, but stop if it stings.
Can I use retinol and salicylic acid together?
It's best to keep them on different days, at least until your skin is used to retinol. Medsafe's data sheet for tretinoin names salicylic acid among the products to use with particular caution.
Can I use niacinamide with retinol?
Usually, yes. DermNet says niacinamide is well tolerated, and many people use the two in the same routine. Add one new product at a time, and stop if your skin stings.
Can I use hyaluronic acid with retinol?
Yes. It's one of the easiest things to pair with retinol, because it's a hydrating ingredient. It goes on before your moisturiser.
Can I use a jelly mask if I use retinol at night?
Yes, on a different day. Our Hyaluronic Acid jar contains retinol, so it shouldn't go on the same day as other retinoids or exfoliating acids, and it's simplest to keep any mask to a night off from your serum. If yours is prescribed, ask your doctor first.
This is general information, not medical advice. If you're worried about your skin, see your GP or a skin specialist.
Sources
- ReTrieve Cream (tretinoin) data sheet, Medsafe
- Topical retinoids, DermNet
- Nicotinamide, DermNet
- How to maximize results from anti-aging skin care products, American Academy of Dermatology