What is retinol? A plain guide for beginners
Retinol is a form of vitamin A used in cosmetics to help skin look smoother. It belongs to the retinoid family, which also includes prescription medicines such as tretinoin. Go slowly: retinoids can cause dryness, redness and peeling and can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and they're not recommended in pregnancy.
Retinol and retinoids
"Retinoid" is the family name, and retinol is one member. DermNet separates them roughly like this:
| Group | Examples | Where you get them |
|---|---|---|
| In cosmetics | Retinol, retinaldehyde | Off the shelf |
| Prescribed | Tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene, trifarotene | From a doctor |
They all act on the same pathway in skin cells, by binding to receptors that switch on certain genes. How strongly and how irritating they are varies a lot. DermNet ranks adapalene as the least irritating of the prescribed retinoids and tretinoin as the most.
What retinol can do
In cosmetics, retinol is used to help skin look smoother. It isn't quick: DermNet says improvement with retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer. That research is about regular use over months. If a retinol product promises a change overnight, be suspicious.
What to expect at first
The common side effect has a name, retinoid dermatitis: redness, peeling and dry skin. It's usually a matter of too much, too soon. Retinoids can also make eczema worse because of how drying they are, so if you have eczema, talk to your doctor first.
How to start
- Start with one product. The American Academy of Dermatology's advice is to start with one rather than several, because stacking them makes irritation more likely.
- Test it first on a small patch of your inner arm. See how to patch test.
- Use it at night and only a few times a week at first, then build up if your skin is happy.
- Moisturise. DermNet notes that creams tend to be less irritating than gels.
- Wear sunscreen the next day, and every day. DermNet says a daily sunscreen with moisturiser protects against both the sun sensitivity and dryness.
- Stop if it stings or burns. Skin that's stinging is telling you something.
What to keep it away from is a topic of its own: see what not to mix with retinol.
How strong is too strong?
The EU has a useful reference point: new EU rules cap retinol at 0.3 per cent in face and hand products and at 0.05 per cent in body lotions, because total vitamin A exposure from all sources is a concern. That doesn't apply in New Zealand as such, but if you're comparing serums, it tells you what regulators elsewhere regard as the upper end. Stronger doesn't mean better for most skin.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Retinoids are the main skincare ingredient to bring up with your doctor if you're pregnant, trying to be, or breastfeeding. More on this in skincare in pregnancy.
Retinol in our jars
Of our jars, Hyaluronic Acid lists retinol, near the end: it's fourteenth on its label. The labels of Rose and Tea Tree don't list it. The label doesn't state the percentage. The shop page says it "helps skin look smoother" and warns that it can make skin more sensitive to the sun. A mask you wear for 15 to 20 minutes and peel off isn't a retinol routine, and we don't sell it as one. But we treat it as a product with retinol in it, which is why the rules are: sunscreen the next day, and no other retinoids or exfoliating acids on the same day.
Questions
Is retinol the same as vitamin A?
It's a form of vitamin A. Retinoids are a family of vitamin A-related ingredients, and some, such as tretinoin, are prescription medicines.
Should I use retinol in the morning or at night?
Most people use it at night. DermNet describes prescribed retinoids as being applied at bedtime, and you'll want sunscreen the next day whichever you use.
How long does retinol take to work?
DermNet says improvement with retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer with regular use. Expect slow change rather than something you'd notice in days.
This is general information, not medical advice. If you're worried about your skin, see your GP or a skin specialist.
Sources
- Topical retinoids, DermNet
- How to maximize results from anti-aging skin care products, American Academy of Dermatology
- EU retinol limits take effect: new concentration caps and mandatory labeling, Personal Care Insights