Does collagen in skincare work?
Not in the way the word suggests. Collagen in a cream or mask can't replace the collagen in your skin, because the whole molecule is far too big to get through the outer layer. What it can do is sit on the surface and help hold water, so skin feels softer and looks fuller for a while.
Why collagen doesn't sink in
Collagen is the main structural protein in your skin's deeper layer, and it's a giant by skincare standards. A 2020 review puts native collagen at about 300 kDa and says it can't get through the skin's outermost layer. That's the reason you can't top up your own collagen by rubbing it on.
What about hydrolysed collagen?
Hydrolysed collagen is collagen broken into smaller pieces, and it's where the more hopeful claims come from. The same review says fragments of about 1 to 10 kDa have better prospects, but that low permeability is still one of the main problems. The evidence for deep penetration comes from just a few studies, including work on mice. A word of warning about that review: several of its authors work for a collagen company, which funded it, so it's likely to lean optimistic.
Even if some small pieces get in, that doesn't mean they turn into new collagen in your skin. Those are two separate claims, and it's the second that's usually implied by marketing.
What it does do
The same review calls hydrolysed collagen a cosmetic ingredient with good moisturising properties in the top layer of skin. A moisturiser study it cites found better hydration and less water loss after four weeks of use. So the fair description is that it's a moisturising ingredient with a good name.
What actually protects your own collagen
The strongest thing you can do is the least glamorous. The American Academy of Dermatology says that sun protection can reduce signs of premature ageing, and UV is well known for breaking down collagen. In New Zealand, with our UV, that matters more than almost anything in a jar. See do you need sunscreen every day?
Collagen in our jars
Of our jars, Hyaluronic Acid lists collagen extract, seventh on its label. Our shop page says it "forms a light film that makes skin feel smoother", and that's all we'd claim. It can't replace your own collagen, and we'd rather you heard that from us. What you'll notice is skin that feels soft and smooth after you peel, a short-term effect at the surface.
The label says Collagen Extract, and it doesn't state the source. If that's important to you, for dietary or personal reasons, message us before you buy. We'd rather you ask than assume.
Questions
Can collagen creams increase collagen in your skin?
There's no good evidence that rubbing collagen on your skin adds to your own. Native collagen is too large to get through the outer layer. It can still help skin feel moisturised.
Is hydrolysed collagen better in skincare?
Smaller pieces may have better prospects of getting into the top layers, but the evidence is thin. Its clearest benefit so far is as a moisturising ingredient.
Does a collagen mask plump skin?
It can make skin look fuller for a short while, mainly because the top layer holds more water. It doesn't rebuild collagen in the deeper layer.
This is general information, not medical advice. If you're worried about your skin, see your GP or a skin specialist.
Sources
- Collagen hydrolysates for skin protection: oral administration and topical formulation, Aguirre-Cruz and colleagues, Antioxidants, 2020
- How to maximize results from anti-aging skin care products, American Academy of Dermatology